HOW TO CHOOSE A LEATHER COAT
The leather itself is, of course, the biggest factor. Most of what is on the market today in smooth leather, is lamb or cowhide. Pigskin is not common in smooth leather. It is usually tanned for suede. (We'll do a separate article on suedes.) Only occasionally will you find garments made of goat. These are usually very inexpensive and most likely will have an undesirable sprayed dye finish*. (While some cowhides have this finish as well, it is not common, and cowhide is almost always a good choice.) Deer, elk, and moose are commonly made into garments, but not usually found in the stores.
So, when shopping, you are in all likelihood choosing between lambskin or cowhide.
Lambskin is beautiful, soft as butter, and feels like a second skin on you! Accordingly, lambskin is delicate. It tears easily and the finish wears off quickly. If you find a lamb jacket you want for the style, fit, or feel, then buy it, and Leather CARE Specialists can help you take care of it.
On the other hand, cowhide is much tougher and the finish lasts longer. If you don't want to be concerned about jumping in the car or truck, being careful with the seat belt, or shoving your gloves in your pockets, you should buy a cowhide. Keep it conditioned properly and you could have that cowhide jacket your entire life.
New tanning processes are delivering some “lambtan” cowhides that are very close to the feel of lamb. If you prefer the luxury of lamb but need the practicality of cowhide you should consider these. Labels will still only say “100% Leather.” Ask your clerk to be sure of what you are buying.
Now look the leather over. Does the leather have some body to it, a good moist look, and do the panels show consistency in cutting from the best sections of the hide? Take a fold and see if it feels smooth when you move it back and forth between your fingers. Check for quality skin (see the photos below) Very thin places should give themselves away. Also, skivers can leave hairline cuts that go almost though. You can usually spot these from the outside.
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The underside of a quality skin. |
The underside of a poor quality skin.
The flesh is very thin in spots and will give way to any small stress. This is an animal that was treated poorly, handled roughly, and, if only for this reason, you shouldn't buy it. |
Regardless of what leather you choose, check the stitching. If the thread is dull, it is probably all cotton. You should be looking for bonded nylon to hold your coat together. Cotton wears wherever it rubs and you will end up with seams where the top thread is completely gone. Also, look to see if the stitching is backstitched at the seam ends, and tight (indicating correct tension on top and bottom threads).
Check the panels at the pockets, elbows, and stress points for strength. If they seem thin or stretchy, look for a different jacket. The upper outside arms are one of the most common areas that we receive at Leather CARE Specialists for repairs. This area is susceptible to tears, so make sure these panels feel strong without weak spots (see photos).
Are the buttons sewn securely with no loose ends? Are the snaps secure?
Is the zipper sewn in properly? A zipper that is set in too close to the stitch line (the zipper head drags or the head sticks) will result in faded worn edges. Also, if the zipper is not sewn in nice and flat, it will be problematic. It may split open, jam, or wear out quickly at the pin (see photo on Shipping Garments page).
A quality lining will have a very tight weave and quilted linings should use “lock” stitches.
Lastly, the price. Most likely you'll pay extra for a good coat, but it will be well worth it, and now, you are equipped to pick one!
CHECK LIST: LEATHER, STRESS AREAS, THREAD, CLOSURES, LINING
*Sprayed Dye Finish
This is where the hides have not been dyed in vats during the tanning process, allowing for color penetration all the way through the skins. You can spot these skins by checking the garment at the stitching needle holes, or at corner edges (collar tips, for example, where the leather has been pulled to turn). If the “paint” has been added after the tanning process there will be places where the finish cracks and you will see light colored flesh showing through.
